Deconstructed Layered Caffee Latte

Usually for New Years Eve, I get together with my friends in Norway, we make a feast and party in to the early hours of the new year. Great way to start of the year. I usually make the dessert, and this is my addition to this year’s party. I also made the other two courses of the feast for the small party of 30 guests. This dessert is inspired by the great Seattle Coffee bar’s, Slate Coffee Roasters, deconstructed latte. I find their roasting and selection of beans to lend a great addition to desserts. They usually have a lighter roast, full of aroma. You get the fruitiness and complexity of the bean and origin. If you are in the area, you should for sure check out their tasting menu. Best shared between friends or a partner, unless you are really jet lagged. This recipe makes about 6-8 small 200ml (8oz) paper coffee cups.

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If you don’t want to serve it in a paper cup, you can always class it up a little.

Chocolate Sponge

95g Milk (Whole)
55g Vegetable oil
55g Egg white,
10g Egg yolk,
95g Sugar
55g Cake flour (Bleached)
25g Cocoa Powder (Valrhona Cocoa Powder – Roasted)
2.5g Kosher salt
2 N2O Cartridges (Cream chargers)
60g Espresso (Slate Coffee Finca San Luis)

Cut 3 small holes in the bottom of the paper coffee cup using a knife. I found it best to Combine milk, oil, and eggs to the blender and blend. Add all remaining ingredience and blend until smooth. Pour into a Whipping siphon and charge with 2 cartridges. The batter will raise a lot in the microwave. We want to create a layer that is about 3cm at the bottom of the paper cup. So we want about a little bit less than a 2cm of batter in the cups. The sponge will puff up in the microwave. Knock the cups on a level surface to make sure it is evenly dispersed. Knocking too hard will make the cakes sink together and not become airy and light. Cook in the microwave for 25-30 seconds. Pour table spoon of a freshly pulled shot of Espresso on the sponge once cooled. You can make this dessert gluten free by making this layer with the a dark chocolate cremeux. You can find a good recipe for that at my Secret Stash of Chocolate. Just swap the milk chocolate with a dark chocolate and the hazelnut liqueur with espresso.

White Chocolate Coffee Ganache

25g pour-over Coffee (Slate Coffee Kibugu Washed)
50g White Chocolate (Valrhona Ivoire 35%)

Bring the Coffee up to a boil. The coffee I used is very fruity and lends itself well to this preparation. To substitute I would recommend a light roast coffee that you like. Pour the coffee over the chocolate. Make sure you get every last drop. Stir until all the chocolate is melted. If you are not getting it fully melted, gently melt using a bain marie or microwave. Pour two table spoons of the mixture on top of the cooled sponge with espresso. This will soak into the sponge a little.

Latte Creme

50g Heavy Whipping Cream
75g Mascarpone

Mix Mascarpone with the milk until you have a smooth and no lumps. Pour two table spoons  of the mixture on top to the Coffee Ganache. Place the cup back in the freezer to set.

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Cold Brew Gel

200g Cold Brew Coffee (Slate Coffee All-Nighter)
1.3g Agar Agar

In a pot with the coffee add Agar Agar. Heat the coffee mixture to above 90c and make sure the Agar is stirred in well. Remove from heat. When the temperature drops to 50c, pour two table spoons of the liquid on top of the Latte Creme in the cup. Agar agar sets at 35-45c, and it sets rapidly. Place the cup in the fridge to set.

See you next time. Hungry Eyes Full Heart, Can’t Lose!

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Tilslørte Bondepiker Entremet

I have long been wanting to create the latest craze of the Internet, Entremet. You may know them as the shiny cream cakes you see people post, with mirror like glaze. As it is fall season here in Seattle I wanted to take advantage of the great apples Washington has to offer. This is my take on a classic Norwegian dessert – Tilslørte Bondepiker. Traditionally it is layers of apple compote, whipped cream, and toasted breadcrumbs in butter. Inspired by Savour School in Australia I created my own Entremet staying true to the flavors of the original dessert, but also elevating it to the next level.

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Tilslørte Bondepiker

Apple Compote

2kg Honey Crisp Apples (Peeled and Cored)
50g Sugar
5g Malic Acid (Adjust to your level of tartness)
60ml Calvados

Cut the apples in to medium sized cubes and stew them down with sugar over medium-low heat until you get a jammy apple compote. Remove from heat and add Calvados and Malic Acid. There is going to be sweetness in other layers, so you really want to make the apple’s tartness come forward, but not a full lip-puckering tart. Allow to cool to room temperature. Using a cheese cloth, drain most of the excess water from the apples if there is any. This will ensure that you have a nice firm texture of apple. Create a 2-3mm even layer on a baking sheet and place in freezer.

Butter Biscuit

125g Butter
65g Sugar
2g Vanilla Extract
50g Egg
260g Pastry Flour
15g Milk
5g Baking Powder

Cream the butter and sugar together and add the egg, mix until well combined. Sift flour and baking powder over butter mixture. Add milk and stir until just combined. Bake at 180c for Crumble the biscuits and saute in the butter. You want the crumbs to become golden and crunchy. Create a 2-3mm even layer on a baking sheet and place in freezer. This layer can also be made as a granola to add a more rustic chew to the dessert.

Bourbon Caramel Sauce

175ml Sugar
60ml Water
240ml Heavy Cream
30ml Bourbon
10g Butter

Heat sugar and water in a pot over medium-high heat until it turns a nice amber color. Be careful as caramel goes quickly from amber to burnt if you are not paying attention. Pull pot away from the heat and add the heavy cream. Stir and put it back on to the heat but reduce the heat to medium-low. Once the caramel has thickened remove from the heat and carefully add the bourbon and butter. Stir and let cool. If you have a condiment bottle this is a practical to use for storing the caramel sauce.

Cinnamon Bourbon Custard

250g Heavy Cream
125g Whole Milk
115g Egg Yolk
50g Sugar
10g Toasted Cinnamon (ground)
5g Cinnamon (ground)
14g Gelatin (Powder)

In a pot on the stove whisk and heat all the ingredients, except for the gelatin, until it reaches about 80c. Make sure there is nothing burning on the bottom and the eggs doesn’t scramble. Stir constantly until the mixture is enough to coast the back of the spoon. Let the mixture cool to 65c and add the Gelatin while continue to whisk. Once it is cooled to room temperature place in a piping back and leave out until you are ready to pipe the molds for assembly.

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Assembly

To assemble use any mold you like. Silicon molds are awesome for this aspect and they come in many shapes and sizes. I used specifically a Silikomart ‘Stone’ mold. It creates nice curved edges and a create size for this dessert. Take your two baking sheets out of the freezer and use a cookie cutter to cut out pieces that will fit inside the mold you use. Make sure there a little room on the sides so that the layers of apple compote and biscuit crumbs before you encased in Cinnamon Custard. Easiest way I found was to pipe in the custard into the mold and take a stack of Apple Compote, Bourbon Caramel, and Butter Biscuit and gently press into the custard. Make sure they fill the mold completely and doesn’t overflow. Place back in the freezer to make them frozen solid. I used a glaze from Savour School to get that mirror shine finish. As the entremet is setting up make the glaze. It will need some time to cool to the correct pouring temperature. I split mine into two batches, so that I could create that green and red Apple look. Allow entremet to setup and defrost at room temperature before eating. I know it is hard to not eat them all, but worth the wait.

See you next time. Hungry Eyes Full Heart, Can’t Lose!

Restaurant Visit: Osteria Francescana

Earlier this summer I were invited to one of my best friends wedding parties in Italy. Home of the pizza and pasta. Making sure I planned ahead I made reservations for 4 to Osteria Francescana. Osteria Francescana were originally fully booked as there some changes in how to make reservations. But the host was able to magically make a new table appear. So got very lucky to get a reservation. Just days afterwards they were given the “Best Restaurant in the World” award. So expectations were high.

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Got a picture with the Man himself, Chef Massimo Bottura

These are my mobile pictures I took of the meal. The meal was as you could expect top notch. But in any meal there were some I liked better than others. Attention to detail, atmosphere, and the total experience were just fantastic.

 

From the outside you couldn’t really tell what was behind those doors. Looks very hidden, but the best things in life are those that you explore. So this just got me more excited.

Selecting wine is not something that should be taken lightly. We started the meal with a nice Barolo 2008 and then a nice Lambrusco 2013. We selected the Tuffo menu, which is composed of the dishes you see on Netflix’s Chef’s Table. They also have another set menu, which you can find on their website.

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The meal started off with a little crispy toast with Rabbit mousse

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Tuile with Parmesan

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Meringue shells filled with Foie Gras and Puff Pastry filled with Rabbit Pate

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Tribute to Normandy
Tartar of lamb with a seafood sauce

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Lentils are Better than Caviar
Lentals cooking in a briney broth to emulate the saltyness of Caviar. This was probably my favorite dish.

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‘Riso Levante’
Risotto with Saffron

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Mediterranean Sole
Sole served with dehydrated salt water that create a thin paper that melted away in your mouth.

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An Autumn Ceviche in Modena
Mushrooms and chestnut in a cream sauce

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Five Ages of Parmigiano Reggiano in Different Textures and Tempratures
Who knew you could make Parmesan sing like this. Not just you addition to pasta.

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The Crunchy Part of the Lasagna
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At the Dinner of Trimalchione: Fowl in the Ancient Roman Style
Fowl with crispy skin with a dark and rich sauce made with the drippings

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Croccantino of Foie Gras
Foie Gras Popsicle covered with caramel chopped nuts. This was my favorite bite. But I do love my Foie Gras

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Caesar Salad in Bloom
Romain Lettuce with flowers and freeze dried raspberry powder

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Oops! I Dropped the Lemon Tart
Decontructed Lemon Tart, the small dots on the top of the plate were many different sauces and textures. Ranging from hot sauce and Capers, to different herbs.

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Chocolate Ganache with Freeze Dried Raspberry Powder

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Filled chocolate spheres with cherry liqueur, Chocolate Truffle, and Macaron with Black Truffle and Foie Gras

If you have a chance to dine at Osteria Francescana, it is something that is an adventure into the culinary marvels. The overall course and experience is something I will cherish for a very long time.

See you next time. Hungry Eyes Full Heart, Can’t Lose!

The Last Word Sundae

Hello, this is Joe from Measure and Stir, doing a guest post for johan on which we collaborated, which will also be cross-posted at my blog.

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This is not my first foray into the world of cocktail-inspired ice creams. My first was not up to snuff, and never made it to the web. My second was Mai Tai Soft Serve, which you may remember. Today, I am proud to share an ice cream Sundae inspired by one of my favorite classic cocktails, the Last Word. This drink is famous among cocktail enthusiasts, and as a Seattlite, it has a special place in my heart, since it was re-popularized in the modern cocktail renaissance by our very own Murray Stenson.

To make this ice cream sundae, we wanted to do something ambitious. It’s easy to get carried away when dealing with modernist techniques, and I think you will find that we did not exercise any restraint at all.

Just to review, the last word is a drink composed of equal parts:

The Last Word
3/4 oz London Dry Gin
3/4 oz Maraschino Liqueur
3/4 oz Green Chartreuse
3/4 oz Fresh Lime Juice

The green Chartreuse is really the key to this drink, as it is the source of its unique flavor. Even so, the combination and the balance are such that every element is a first class citizen. We went through several iterations before we settled upon this arrangement. What is the right way to marry an ingredient to a preparation? I confess I do not have any formal method for making these decisions.

The base of an ice cream sundae is the ice cream, and for that reason, it seemed fitting to use the base spirit of the drink, which in this case is London dry gin. As I have noted before, actual spirits do not come through strongly when added to an ice cream base. We can achieve much more flavorful results by using the root flavors of the spirit, rather than the spirit itself. To make a London dry gin ice cream, we used a hint of gin, but we steeped coriander, orange peel, and juniper berries into the cream. I don’t have the exact ratio, but this will get you pretty close. Note that we use the same base recipe as in Johan’s licorice ice cream.

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London Dry Gin Ice Cream
650g Whole Milk
225g Sugar
200g Egg Yolks
150g Heavy Cream
50ml London Dry Gin

Before combining the ingredients to make the ice cream, infuse the milk with gin botanicals. In a pan, toast up 2 tbsp of coriander seeds and 2 tbsp of juniper berries, until the oil starts to bloom on the juniper. When the berries are shiny, drop all of the spices into the milk, and gently heat on a stovetop for fifteen minutes along with one fat orange peel, trimmed of pith.

A good ice cream sundae should contain many layers and textures. Moreover, the last word, although quite spiritous, is a citrus-driven drink. It needs to the acidity and the punch of fresh sour lime juice. To achieve this end, we made a lime juice curd using this lemon curd recipe from chefsteps, subbing lemon for lime, and omitting the gelatin. I cannot stress this last point enough. In our first attempt, we used the optional gelatin suggested in the recipe, and wound up with a disgusting congealed mass.

For the maraschino, we made a zabaione, which Johan called by some incomprehensible Norwegian (eggedosis) name that he will probably edit in here.

Maraschino Zabaione
3 Large Egg Yolks
100 ml Heavy Cream
Sugar and Marschino to Taste
Integrate using a mixer (or a whisk, if you want to work on those arms), and load into an iSi whipping cannister. Charge it up and shake it.

For the green chartreuse, we made a fluid gel. Modernist techniques often feel like solutions in search of a problem, but in this case, a chartreuse gel was exactly the thing. We adapted this recipe from chefsteps as well, substituting fresh orange juice with green chartreuse, and omitting the citric acid. The texture and mouthfeel was unusual, but it felt very at home in a sundae, filling in the same space where one might otherwise find chocolate fudge sauce.

At this point, we had all of the elements, and a variety of soft viscosities, but a sundae also needs crunch, contrast, and texture. To this end, we repeated some of the flavors, and expanded on others. Ice cream wants some kind of cookie or crumble, and we opted to use two.

The first was a cinnamon shortbread, which we crumbled up and used as the bottom layer. I used this recipe from Serious Eats

Cinnamon Shortbread
9 ounces (about 1 3/4 cup) all-purpose flour
8 ounces (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened, plus a little more for greasing the pan
3 1/2 ounces (about 1/2 cup) confectioners’ sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
A healthy outpouring of ground cinnamon.

Don’t overmix the cinnamon in the shortbread, in order to create a marbled effect. I don’t know how much I used, but you’ll know it’s right when you see it. Cinnamon may seem like an odd addition to the dessert, but it complements and expands on the cinnamon flavor that is present in green chartreuse. It does not repeat perfectly, but it does rhyme.

The second cookie was a tuile, which also came from Serious Eats.

Tuile
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons (4 1/4 ounces) sugar
1/2 cup (1 3/4 ounces) sifted cake flour
2 large egg whites
3/4 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/2 stick (2 ounces) unsalted butter, melted

We integrated this, allowed it to cool, then spread it into a thin layer on a silpat using an offset spatula, and baked it at 175 C until it was just brown all over, about 12 minutes. For the final plating, we just shattered it into pieces.

In addition to cookie textures, we added a couple of soft and chewy elements. The first was dried sweetened pineapple, compressed with maraschino. To make this, we bought dried sweetened pineapple chunks in bulk from a supermarket, and compressed them in a chamber vac with a shot of Botanical Gin (Uncle Val’s Botanical Gin). The longer you leave them sealed in the bag, the softer they get. We let ours sit for about two hours before draining them. They kept in a jar for quite a while afterwards, and had the texture of soft gummy candy. We chose pineapple because it pairs wonderfully with lime, and green chartreuse, but in truth, any pineapple flavor was completely eclipsed by the strong botanical Gin.

Finally, we topped it with falooda seeds soaked in a mixture of London dry gin and water. These are popular in some asian and Indian desserts, and they have the amazing property that they will soak up any liquid in which they rest. They are sometimes colloquially called frogs eggs, but they have a similar texture to modernist caviar made with sodium alginate. Since they soaked up a little gin, they were the perfect vehicle to give a tiny boozy kick to the dessert, which was otherwise lacking.

The composition of the sundae was as follows, from bottom up, served in a Cocktail Glass:

  • Cinnamon Short Bread Crumbles
  • Lime Curd
  • London Dry Gin Ice Cream
  • Citrus Gin-Compressed Pineapple
  • Maraschino Zabaione
  • Green Chartreuse Fluid Gel
  • Tuile Shards
  • Gin-Soaked Falooda

This was a lot of work, but the result was something truly special.

See you next time. Hungry Eyes Full Heart, Can’t Lose!

Trio of Ice Cream

This summer have been a hot one, and to cool down I have been tinkering with some cold flavors. To make the ice cream I used Liquid Nitrogen (LN2), and the smallest container available for purchase at my local welder shop is 10 liters, so that creates about 3 batches of ice cream. Currently there is a trend to add Licorice to everything, so I wanted to make a ice cream with that. And to fill up the other flavors I made a Dark Chocolate ice cream. My friend, Joe from Measure and Stir, have been wanting to make a cocktail ice cream and made his take on a MaiTai. Ice cream is a dish that you can really taste great dairy, so worth the extra few dollars on the good stuff.

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Licorice Custard Ice Cream with LN2 Frozen Raspberry and Orange shards

Licorice

650g Whole Milk
225g Sugar
200g Egg Yolks
150g Heavy Cream
10g Licorice Powder (Fine)

3 about liters of Liquid Nitrogen

Mix all ingredients together in a Thermomix. Thermomix is a food processor with a heating element built in. Meaning you can set a temperature and have have it gently stir or chop. This processes helps making an ice cream base as you need to start with a custard. Put all the ingredients in the Thermomix except for the Licorice. Licorice is a pretty dominant flavor,so less is more. You should aim for where you can taste the Licorice, but not as intense as a Licorice candy. Stir the base at 70c for about 20-30 minutes, checking every so often to make sure you have a smooth thick custard base. Once you have your custard let it rest in the fridge for at least 4 hours, but if you can leave it over night even better. You want the custard to cool down and also settle the air structure inside the base. This step is not needed, but does help create a smooth texture ice cream. Using a stand mixer whip the base at medium speed while you pour in the liquid nitrogen slowly. Once semi frozen add to a contain and let firm up in the freezer. Served with Raspberries or strawberries. A great flavor combination is Fresh Strawberries with balsamic reduction with a scoop of Licorice ice cream.

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MaiTai Soft Serve Ice Cream with Fresh Mint and El Dorado 12yo

Mai Tai

You can read all about this cocktail ice cream over at Measure and Stir.

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Double Dark Chocolate Custard Ice Cream with Milk and White Chocolate shaved on top

Double Dark Chocolate

650g Whole Milk
225g Sugar
200g Egg Yolks
150g Heavy Cream
30g Chocolate Powder (Freshly roasted)
50g 66% Caraibe (Finely chopped)
50g 72% Araguani (Finely chopped)

3 about liters of Liquid Nitrogen

I followed the same process for Licorice ice cream base for this ice cream as well.I combined the 66% Caraibe into the custard base as it was mixing in the thermomix. This melted the chocolate to infuse the flavor. Caraibe chocolate have a nutty and fruity flavor and a gentle sweetness. I wanted this to play with the roasted rich chocolate powder. Once the base is semi frozen using the liquid nitrogen, incorporate the Araguani chocolate shavings. This will add small bits of crispy chocolate and bursts of flavor. The Araguani chocolate have a bitter flavor to really complement the two other chocolates.

See you next time. Hungry Eyes Full Heart, Can’t Lose!

Valentines Day Cocktail Hour: Cocoa Nib Macaron With Candied Orange And Orange Butter Cream

Hello, my name is Johan Moe, and welcome to the first entry to MOEdernKitchen.com. Here I will share creations from my kitchen and for you to try at home. You will find traditional and modern dishes with a touch of influence to take it to the next level.

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Blood Orange and Cocoa nib liqueur, with cocoa nib Macaron filled with Orange butter cream

The idea behind the cocktail hour was to create a romantic trio of cocktails, building on the foundation of love, affection, and companionship. Each drink to symbolize a different emotion. This was a collaboration with my good friend Joe. Joe enjoy creating craft cocktails of high caliber. The trio we created were as follows: Raspberry coulis and Calvados with a Rose air cocktail with candied berries, Blood Orange Juice and homemade Cocoa Nib liqueur Cocktail with a Cocoa Nib Macaron filled with candied Orange and a Orange butter cream, and lastly a Creme Brulee cocktail with toasted Brioche topped with a Miso caramel sauce.

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A flight of Pappy Van Winkle to get the creative juices flowing. With Joe (left) and me

The idea to this started Joe wanted to create a trio of cocktails for valentines day. It started off with something sweet, something red, and something good. Joe shared this idea with me on our trip to Vegas (You can read about the bar crawl here). The drinks were already pretty much locked down, but I was able to contribute with some theater and tasty bites. For full review of the cocktails head over to Measure and Stir.

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Cocoa Nib Macaron filled with Orange butter cream and candied Orange

For my main contribution to the trio, the French Macaron. These delicious delicate little cookies are so hard to perfect, but well worth the effort to learn. For a basic Macaron I highly recommend checking out this class on Chefsteps. They have made it really easy to follow and get a great result every time.

 

Cocoa Nib Macaron shells

150g Almond flour (extra fine)
150g Powdered sugar
110g Egg whites
1g Egg white powder
55g Water
165g Sugar
20g Cocoa powder

To create the shells for the Macarons, you will need to separate out egg whites and let them come up to room temperature. While you wait measure out the remaining ingredients. The Almond flour, Cocoa powder and powdered sugar will need to be sifted, as you do not want lumps in the batter. Mix in half of the egg whites to make an almond paste. Mix together the remaining egg whites with the egg white powder. Egg white powder helps add more stability to the cookies. Whip until soft peaks and keep in running on lowest setting. In a small sauce pan combine the sugar and water and bring it up to 118C / 244F. Once the Sugar have come to temp, put the mixer to high and slowly pour in the sugar in a gentle stream into the egg whites. Mix for another 5 minutes until you have firm peaks. Combine with the Almond paste gently, as we want the most amount of air in the cookies. Pipe out to a cookie tray with a silpat, and let the cookies try until they are no longer sticky. Sprinkle some Cocoa nibs on top of the cookies as they dry. Bake for 12-13 minutes in the oven at 165C / 330F. Baking the cookies require you to know your oven, so a few test batches are needed, but it is never a bad excuse to try again.

Orange German Butter Cream

10 Egg yolks
100g Sugar
120g Whole Milk
60g Marmalade
15g Clement Creole Shrub
3 dashes Orange bitters

German butter cream is traditionally a softer cream. I wanted something that would hold up a little bit more. So opted to cook the eggs Sous Vide (What is Sous Vide). The eggs were cooked for 30 minutes at 82C / 180F. This will create a solid egg mixture, and an added benefit of create an intense eggy flavor. This helped cut down the richness of all the sweet elements added and the cookies themselves. So to get the creamy constancy, combine the milk and eggs together in a high powered blender. In a mixer cream the butter and add sugar. Once combined add the milk/egg mixture, as well as Marmalade, Orange liqueur and the Orange bitters. Place in the fridge to set up a little before piping. Candy some Orange, and add it to the cream filling for an extra pop of flavors. Recommended to keep the cookies in the fridge and take them out 30-60 minutes before enjoying them, if you can manage to wait.

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Raspberry Coulis and Calvados cocktail with rose air, served with candied berries

The other bites were candied berries and a toasted brioche with Miso caramel sauce. The berries were candies using egg whites. Coat the berries in the egg white and then sanding sugar. Leave to dry overnight to create a hard crunching shell texture. To make the Miso caramel sauce bring sugar up to a soft ball (118C / 235F)  and carefully mix in some heavy cream and Miso paste. Leave to cool. Serve on toast or ice cream.

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Creme Brulee Cocktail with toasted briocheand Miso Caramel sauce

I hope you have enjoy it. Check back soon for more updates and tasty treats. Hungry Eyes Full Heart, Can’t Lose